we have got Specials this month for any Honda B-Series Engines. Valid till the 30th JUNE

HPR 4:1 B-Series Exhuast Mainfold

NOW ON SALE $330.00 inc GST

this header can be fitted to your car here at Hi-Power Racing with a 2.5 inch flex Joint for $200.00 all tig welded in.

alternatively you can also add a 2.5 inch Stainless Hi-Flow Cat on to your car  for an additional $300.00

_______________________________________________________________________________

We have tried using many different designs of manifold, and in our opinion and over the years we have found that we always return to this design, 4:1 extractors definately gives you more torque on higher Rpm, we believe that at  top rpm range the b-series engine  falls short compared to H-series, and K-series (we are talking bout torque here not revs).

These Extractors are custom made and designed by Hi-Power Racing and Manufactured Oversea to ensure that pricing is kept low for our customer.

Yes these extractors are not as good as a $2000.00 Jun Exhaust manifold, however at this price it is definately a bargain for the
general public, unlike other Ebay versions, these extractors are built using really thick 2mm Hi-Grade Stainless Steel and i promise they will not crack under heat.

like you i really detest putting inferior products into our cars, and i have more than 1 occasion installed these headers to my customers and personal cars.

They work great!!

HPR EXHAUST MANIFOLD

maybe built a LS-Vtec engine.

so i embark on the task of pulling the head out of the B16a and pulling the block out of the B18b engine.

B16a2 Donor Engine.

B16a2 Donor Engine we need the cylinder head off this engine.

B18B engine

and We will need the Block off this b18b engine.

Head off one engine

Blocks Apart

OMG !! look at the mess!!

the Operation to MAke a Frankestien LS-Vtec B18b Block. 2 heads and 2 blocks apart.. soon comes the marriage.

okay to ensure that the B16a2 head stays onto the block and not lift, we have decided to use ARP head BOlts torque down to spec.

ARP HEAD BOLTS

Aftermarket intake manifold

Fully reconditioned head

so we put the engine together, sorry i didnt take many pictures of the process because i was busy tuning a car and also its some sort of a commercial secret how we built our engines.

after 2 days Tim finally piece together this engine, we did a compression test and all the bore came out good Woot Woot!!

so the next step is to find a Car we can put this engine into.. guess what we found???

a blue EG5 Civic for this engine swap…

i love EG5 especially this one because they come with 4 disc brakes, electric windows, electric mirrors etc. this particular one also comes with a sunroof WIN WIN WIN!!

DONOR CAR

Donor Car Engine coming out

next we need to rip the engine out of this car and get it ready for the transplant.

D16y4 in the car... seeya

Engine coming out

Engines on ebay atm..

so now that the engine bay is empty, its time to put in our new b18b into the car.

B18b in

4 into 1 Manifold

okay so we also decided to add a set of stainless Extractors into this car, this will enable the car to expell the exhuast gas faster.

Whats that sitting on the dyno cabinet?? VAFC? oh well just put it in so we can tune it.

APEXI VAFC

we wired the VAFC into the car and now we are ready for a tune,

Engine Bay with Cold Air intake pipe

also before we actually out the car on the dyno i got adrian to fabricate a Cold Air Intake pipe for the Civic

CAr on dyno

136hp at the front wheels

so the car made 136hp, it is pretty impressive considering it is running standard b18b pistons, compression is 180 all round which shows the motor to be very healthy. most b16a2 or b18c2 will struggle make  125hp on my dyno this engine made 136hp and is best suited for a p-plater everyday drive car and the standard lower compression pistons allows this car for Future Boost application..

its awesome..

so i finished tuning the car, looked aroung my workshop and i figured since i had spares lying around the place i might as well fit it onto this car to make the next owner a very happy man…

so what did i find??

Samco Hoses

SAMCO HOSES

&

2.5 inch Exhuast system

a customers 2.5 inch exhuast system.. perfect!!!

ADRIAN!!, TIM!!, Chuck that shit on!!

Woooh standard exhaust system..

Bye Bye Standard Exhuast system..

New Exhuast System

Welcome exhaust system..

silicon hose in the engine bay

SAMCO yummy

Finished Engine bay

so we fitted the exhaust system and the silicon hoses. now the car is really ready for sale. okay so now i will list down all the parts that has been installed and comes with this car.

Engine LS-Vtec B18B
B16a2 Cylinder Head
Arp HeadBolts
Cometic head Gasket
B18B bottom end

Car
EG5 Vti Hatch back
4 Disc Brakes All round
SunRoof
Electric Windows
Electric Mirrors
Air Con
Power Steering

Electronics
Eagle Spark Plug Leads
Vafc

Exhaust
3inch exhaust with Titanium tip
hi-Flow Cat
4:1 Stainless Extractors

Intake
Aftermarket Power Intake Manifold
Custom HPR Cold Air Intake

Accessories
Samco Hoses

FOR SALE NOW $7999.00 Neg

if you are after a run around this is the car to buy.. what you waiting for??

Jerry : “Ivan i found you a dyno room!”
Ivan : “Okay how much??”
Jerry : “I dont know give this guy a call.”

I made the Phone Call, and i was disappointed..
Jerry didnt understand…that i needed a dyno cell
FOR A 4WD DYNO….  NOT A DYNO CELL FOR A MOTORBIKE!!!

OH WELL…
so i bought a motorcycle dyno room?? why did i do that for???

okay the dyno room i bought

side view of the dyno room i bought

the inside of the dyno room

2.5 kilowatt extractor fan

Okay so this Motorcycle dyno room is 6m wide by 4m long, which makes it 24m square. Measuring my Chassis Dyno on my workshop floor and making provisions for a 4wd dyno in the near future i would need a 8m x 6m room 48 square. meaning this motocycle dyno Cell is too small and if i bought it i got to almost double the size of this Cell.

i decided to buy this cell mainly because i know if i didnt i would never built a cell for my shop, and at least we could use this as a base to construct my Cell. I mean Come on all i have to do is this Motorcycle Cell to fit my purpose, right??? i was so wrong

My neighbours Peerless CAbinets helped me demolished this motorcycle Cell and move this Cell from down the road to my shop. i Guess they say its always handy to have mates with a big Truck..

so now we got a dyno cell in our shop… whos gonna help me put it together and modify it to fit.. so my friend Liam Foolishly put his hand up and volunteered… cool liam heres the room and heres the dyno make it fit please.. thanks

Liam at work

haha so it started

setting up the frame over the dyno

first we had to extended the width of the motorcycle dyno cell. have a look at the length of the dyno room it is too short at the moment and will have to be extended to make room for our future 4WD dyno

liam welding in the roof pieces

look at the picture above, next to the dyno room on the right is the dyno room in a million of pieces.. my workshop was a mess for a month.

dyno room roof structure

Roof Structure and Grill for the dyno room to draw air from

Roof Structure

Liam Fabricating

so next liam had to fabricate almost a new panel for the length of the cell. making the length of the cell 8 meters instead of 6 meters.

Filling the roof with Foam

back half of the room filled with foam

we next have to fill all the cavities in the roof and walls with foam, this prevents noise from getting out of the cell. it also help keep the room airtight. room needs to be airtight so when the extractor fan is turned on it will draw fresh air from the outside into the dyno cell.

Doors are put on the cell just to see what the end product might look like

look at the gap between the doors it was how much wider we had to extend the Motorcycle dyno cell so it will fit my future 4WD Chassis dyno.

Liam up on the roof

more foam on the top side of the cell.

Liam Doing a Birdie

more work more work

look at the ceiling

we had to lay the ceiling with peforated steel sheets the holes in the steel will allow noise to be absorbed into the foam.., OMG the perforated steel sheets are 100 dollars a square meter, so $100 x 48.00 it cost me about $4800.00 just to lay the ceiling with perforated steel… my wallet feels so light atm

other side of the room

all the walls on the dyno room has been laid with peforated steel sheets… $$$ = GONE!!

Air Duct and FAn

So we now had to put the Fan in the roof and also construct a Duct from the fan to the Dyno Cell.

fan and inside the Duct

Room Constructed

okay so the room is constructed all that needs to be done is for the Cell to be wired…

Electricians in wiring up the cell

new fluoros

all wired up..

so after 2 days and 3 electricians on Redbulls.. the room is finally finsihed and fully wired up.. Glen from dyno dynamics came in, in the middle of the build and he told me that he could not build me one of these rooms for less than $40,000.00
so after 6 weeks, heaps of help from my friends and neighbours,  i manage to build this room for around $20,000+ which is still half of what it would cost me for a new call from Dyno Dynamics. This Cell is now 4wd ready and next month we will have talks with Dyno Dynamics on an arrangement for that.

here are the pictures of the room finished enjoy.

Room finished

Right Side of the room

in the corner of the room

Tool Boxes and Cabinets

Doors Closed from the front

Room from the back of the Cell

So why do we need a dyno room you asked? here is some reason why i decided to spent $20,000 on a room instead of spending it on our HPR S15.

getting your car tuned in a dyno cell has alot of advantages compared to having your car tuned on a dyno without a cell. i wish i had invested in this earlier.

all the factors below allows for a better tune on your car

Temperature control : Having a Dyno Cell allows you to control the temperature in the room, makes the room temperature stable.

Carbon Monoxide : not only is carbon monoxide poisionous, venting all the gases out of the room also means that less carbon dioxide is getting back into you combustion chamber making your car run to as close as possible to its natural state.

Air Movement : due to the increase air movement from the Extractor Fan allows for the car in general to be cool while we are tuning the car, it also allows for clean fresh air  to come into the cell and improve the combustion of your engine.

Noise : Prevents your tuner and his mechanics from becoming Deaf.

I love this cell we just built its awesome and you gys should definately bring yoiur cars here to be tuned..

we have decided to add a Sard Surge Tank, upgrade the  Fuel Lines and fuel pump and add an new moroso inline fuel filter.

Speedflow fittings, Moroso lines, relays and fuses

so first we had to remove the standard fuel tank to get to the existing pump

Standard Fuel Tanks out

okay so tanks out, next we need to get to the fuel pump.

Bigger Walbro pump apparently 400l/hr

swapped the 220l/hr walbro pump to another bigger fuel pump.

SpeedFlow Fitting at the bottom of the car. all lines have been upgraded to braided fuel lines.

Fuel Lines under the car

lines to the tank

lines along the chassis

Moroso Solid Fuel lines made up for this modifications.

SARD OVERFLOW TANK

sard over flow tank snuggly fitted in the corner of the car, i love this surge tank because the fuel pump, and all fittings are in the tank itself and is fully sealed, no more fuel smell!! and is probably the safest surge tank any one can have.

what a spot for the surge tank,

look at how neat everything looks when its done

so we finally upgraded the fuel system, the car is now ready fr E85 if we one day decide to it, but now its back to the dyno to try to make sure the car runs perfectly and is does not lean out at all..

Cars going into the dyno room.

this is my first go tuning this car, it was a pleasure i made the same horsepower as before (420hp) however i managed to add a whole lot of torque in the lower and higher rev range it was awesome.. all we have to do now is bring the car to the 1/4 mile and make it the first civic to crack a 10 second pass.

Watch the complete video of the build and the dyno run here..

Photos and Videos by Luke Cole..

thank you all for coming and helping..

enjoy the video..

By the Way we are looking for more sponsors..

if you remembered the week before Christmas, Andrew came to us in and asked us to tune his car as he had just installed a 3000rpm stall converter in his car and wanted it tuned to match the gearbox.

i think the plates are meant to say SLIDE?

at that time we  found that it actually had a big crack on the manifold and we couldnt tune it. this time he brought the car back to us and in its boot is a new manifold he bought.

OUR JOB = FIT NEW MANIFOLD and TUNE THE CAR!!

Only problem is….. the manifold is totally different from the previous one, and the design of the new wastegate purge pipe on the manifold is atrocious!!  so instead of being a 1 day job of simply pulling manifold off, putting manifold on. NOW it needs to be a modify new manifold and everything that goes with it 1 week job!!..

Argh!! but dont worry there isnt anything Hi-Power Racing Can’t fix…

Bonnets up, heads down lets get cracking!!

ADRIAN!!! where is that Torch again??!!…

so starts our journey of making something that will not work into something that will actually work…

intake pipe off

we ripped the intake pipe off, and now we got to get the exhuast manifold off which means..

Turbo is coming off

Turbo OFF!! and wastegate off..

1 of the Crack on the manifold

DONE!!!

THE NEW MANIFOLD…. Sign…

okay now we looked at the new manifold and the design of this manifold is flawed..  so we decided to redesign the wastegate pipe of this manifold to ensure it will hold boost pressure as the rpm climbs.

we decided to extend the wastegate pipe to another side of the manifold.

modified manifold

Chop and Chop and Grind And chop and Grind and weld and modify.

big note to this manifold maker…please if you can’t design manifolds properly maybe you shouldnt sell them.

Adrian Fabricated this extension

steam pipe cut and welded in series to form an extension between runners and wastegate pipe.

pipe in position

this photo shows the modifications we had to do to get this manifold to work it was crazy, but it had to be done. the original design and make of this manifold is so poor.

Manifold on the Engine

After the manifold was fabricated we attached it to the head of the engine. if you can see this extension pipe that we had to make up actually purges exhaust gases from 3 runners in to the wastegate, while the original design only had one pipe purging into the wastegate which is clearly insufficient.

THE NEW WASTEGATE

Turbo smart 50mm wastegate

because the new manifold is of a totally different design to the old manifold, the position of the wastegate etc had to be changed, we also decided on a Turbosmart Wastegate to replace the existing China Special wastegate.

Adrian also had to Fabricate a new Screamer pipe/plumb back pipe for the new wastegate (look in the picture; I love his welding).

screamer pipe

okay now that we got all the parts fabricated and ready to bolt on,sooooo errrrmmm ………..what are we waiting for??

lets put the manifold on..

manifold on

Done! lets put the wastegate and screamer pipe on..

wastegate fitted on

Done!! the Turbo is next..

Turbo Back on

Done!! okay all the other little bits??..??

intake pipe on

Done!!

so at the end the car is finish and next thing to do is to place the car on the dyno and retune the car to the new wastegate and manifold.

Car's Done its now on the dyno

this car is fitted with an EMS 8860 motorsport Ecu, we put the car on the dyno and the plan was to tune it with the 3000rpm stall converter and also with the a 8psi spring on the wastegate.

this car was a handful to tune on the dyno, due to the fact that it had a stally and much care had to be taken to prevent the automatic gearbox from overheating on the dyno, after along long battle, i managed to pull 320hp atw on 13psi on tuning mode(80/90 ramp rate), and 347.9hp atw on Shootout 150 ramp rate.

the customer took the car for a drive and absolutely loved it… he mentioned on my facebook page “love your work Champ, car is freaking awesome cant wait to take it to the 1/4 mile, car has never idled or started this good in its life”

At the end seeing the smile on my customer’s face and being able to tune this beast ( a big camshafted, ford turbo automatic on a 3000rpm stall converter) was an excellent experience for me…

overall i am so please!! in August last year when Adrian first joined us, he could not weld to save his life, but look at him now 6 months later, he is modifying, designing and fabricating manifolds. good job team!!

the owner has also decided to bring his car back next month to have a bigger spring replaced in his wastegate and run 16~18 psi = MOR POWA…

stay tune for more updates.

Thinking back on this brings me back memories of dread and dispair.

I agreed to buy a customer’s B18c2 Intergra and before I knew it, I hurled myself into a whole new world of pain.

We ripped the parts out of this dc2 wreck –  all we needed was an engine, gearbox wiring harness, AND A CAR TO PUT THE CONVERSION IN!!

Addicted to pain please help!!

The donor vehicle: DC2 VTI-R integra.

We found a Civic to do the conversion on - a HOT pink EG Civic!

why why why

okay so we bought this car, we need to put an integra engine in.. what do we do???

Step 1 : rip out the engine in the civic?

D16 ZC engine getting ripped out

Ben and Tim working hand in hands (holding hands) pulling the engine out.

Step 2 : convert old engine from civic into Boat Anchor!

D16 ZC aka Boat anchor

this Engine has successful been converted into a boat anchor

okay engine’s out and has been converted into a boat anchor.. what next??

Step 3 : find donor engine

B18c2 Vtec Engine from the Integra

FOUND!!

Step 4 : prepare Engine bay for integra engine

Engine bay cleaned and ready for the new engine

okay engine bay prepared…

Step 5: put engine into CIVIC

Engine in, Vtec Yo!

ok so the engine got is in position and now we will start to wire this engine into the car.

Step 6: Wring the engine

Wiring it up so it all works

because this certain car was not a V-Tec Model the O2 sensors, Knock sensors etc had to be wired up, its a pretty hard job but i just thank god its a manual fuel injected model

Step 7: Car’s Finish, sell it!!

Cars Finished and is now for sale...

all in all it took us 3 days to finish this conversion from start to finish.. car is now sold ! if your interested in one of this cars let us know and we can definately put something together for you..

After spending a few hours chatting with Matthew, we decided against drop-in cams and decided to use the 272 degree JUN camsahfts. even tho these camshafts need dialing in (which we are able to do) and different valvesprings we believe that the power gains obtained from this modification would make it worthwhile.

I always liked the quality parts JUN produces (come on they have some of the most powerful cars in the world). Here at Hi-Power Racing we believe that JUN camshaft are nodoubt the best in the world.

this car has already got a Front mount intercooler, garret 3071r turbo, fuel pump and an apexi power F.C. and was making 315hp atw.

so after laying down the plan, we started organising the parts and cars for this modifications.

CAr when it came in.

What we are fitting in this Modification
Nismo Fuel Regulator
SpeedFlow Fittings
Nismo Rocker Arm Stoppers
Jun Camshafts
Jun Camgears
Jun ValveSprings
Jun Titanium Retainers

car with parts

Before we do any modifications we always do a leak down and a compression test on the engines, these compressions and leak down tests allows us to have a glimpse of the engine heatlh on any cars. This car check out okay however it has about 13% leakdown thru the pistons on combustion camber 1. it is still within range so to speak and we are more than happy to do the modification to the car.

okay so we begin pulling the engine apart,

Coil PAcks off

Rocker Cover Off

Camshaft and Valvetrain out on the tray.

Head without valvetrain

JUN retainers Vs Stock Retainers

have a look at the picture above, cylinder 1, 2 and 4 has got the JUN valvesprings and JUN retainers installed while cylinder 3 has still got the standard Sr20det ones, see if you can spot the difference.

Installing the JUN camshafts

JUN exhaust camshafts on

intake and exhuast cams fitted

engine cover back on... sweet..

okay so we are about to put the car to the dyno and then.. !!! guess what happened.. we found an exhaust leak coming from the end of the dump pipe..

we then proceed to pull the dump pipe to find most of the bolts on the back of the turbo stripped.. OMG…

stud broke off and treaded.. more work..

after hours of drilling and drilling we manage to break that broken stud into pieces and we replaced all the studs on the back of the turbo..

all new studs ready to be put on.

finally sorted out the exhaust leak, we next proceed to do the fuel regulator..

Nismo Fuel regulator with speed flow fittings yes we use the best

okay car is done and lets see what it does on the dyno…

car on the dyno.

29th feb update ; car made 311hp at 14 psi at 80 ramp rate, had a miss at top rpm might change the plugs and worst case maybe spitfire coilpacks, so will keep you updated tomorrow.

DYNO GRAPH

1st march: we started the day by replacing the sparkplugs and coilpacks with spitfire ones, after  a couple of power runs, we finally finsihed this car. It ended up making 342.6hp atw @ 19~20 psi. looking at the dyno graph we made about 30hp running less boost.

even tho we wanted to add more boost into this car, the injector duty cycle was already at 97% so we dicided to leave the car at this current boost level.

What is the First Thing a P-Plater Does when he’s On his opens?? TURBO HIS HONDA!!

thats what David Steer wanted when he came to us late last year, he wanted his B18c2 to be a daily everyday street car with a little bit of ompf!!

we first placed David’s car on the dyno and did a small tune on his standard egine and found out that his car had problems we were losing compression on one of the cylinders (we later found out that it had a cracked crank).

so we begin this journey of tearing open a engine pulling the stock components out and before we know it

then it went CRAZZZYYYY!!!!

So the fun begins with us pulling the engine out of the car.

we next ripped out the old head and placed every part on the disasembling table.

oh well Heads Off to the reconditioners… Blocks going to be machined too at JACK BROs Machining.

pulling the sump apart we found plastic bits in the sump, just shows you guys how dodgy some home jobs are.. also explains how the bearing and crank got damaged.

YUCK.. engine looks to be in really bad shape. but should be good when its done.

Cool parts arrived NEw pistons, Conrods, Crankshafts, bearings, headbolts, etc. etc.. woot woot…

new 900hp crank on the freshly machined block.

thats not an eyelash it’s a plastic gauge.

bearings and conrods superglued to the crank for extra strength…

new pistons low compression for boost…

new reconditioned head on the prepared block..

next we put the camshafts and cam caps in.

new timing belt, new water pump and new tensioner replaced … woot we are close now..

skunk 2 manifold back on the car..

ORC clutch on with the engine crane ready

S80 type-r gearbox

so with a little trouble we had the engine back in the car.

okay so it took us 5 days to put the engine back together and back in the car, even tho we waited over christmas for the machining to get done (you cannot rush perfection hee hee hee). we managed to put this car back on to the road in no time, now all david has torun in his engine. and after a 1000km we will put the car back on the dyno and start making more power.

anywayz enjoy

Videos taken by Morgan Koury, editing help from Lemot, to everyone that contributed to this video, thank you!!